Loaves And Brews
One practical example of sustainability:
when waste from one process is raw material for another
by Doug Nathan
One of the articles in Good Medicine (IC#39) Fall 1994, Page 9
Copyright (c)1994, 1997 by Context Institute
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A sustainable business is one in which the waste from one product provides
the foodstock for another. The Spent Grain Baking Company (SGBC) of Seattle
has found this approach to be not only environmentally sensible but downright
tasty. This new family-owned company uses spent grain from four local micro
breweries to make nutritious, delicious loaves of bread. The source of the
grain is a source of pride for the company.
"Until we used the spent grain in our bread, no one considered the
nutritional value for humans," says Lorraine Brown, SGBC's human resource
director.
Spent is a misnomer, she says. In the brewing process, malted grains
are coarsely milled and then steeped in hot water in the mash tun where
most of the carbohydrates convert to sugar. After draining off the sweet
extract, the remaining grain contains a higher ratio of protein, natural
dietary fiber, and flavor.
"We take the grain from the mash tun when its freshest, cool it
immediately, and add it to our dough," she says.
It all started when Bruce Brown, Lorraine's husband and the marketing
director of SGBC, mentioned to a friend that he was home-brewing beer. His
friend told him to bring over the used grains so he could make bread. That
loaf sparked an idea that swept the Brown family into the bread baking
business.
Their son, Aaron Brown, a recent Western Culinary Institute graduate,
is the SGBC master baker. He developed the recipes for four loaves of bread.
Just as beer brew masters roast their grains to achieve unique flavors,
so too Aaron has sought to match the tastes and textures of the grain to
the proper loaf of bread. Dark roasted grains go into denser, heftier bread.
SGBC uses about 6 percent of the grains from a mash tun, or about 1 percent
of a week's production, says Peter William Jones, assistant brew master
of the Thomas Kemper Brewery. The rest goes to local farmers for animal
feed. In exchange for the free grain, SGBC includes packaging in each loaf
indicating the brewery from which the grains originated.
The percentage of spent grain to dough varies from 17 percent to 25 percent.
Each loaf is hand formed, so their bread making process is part manufacturing,
part art, says Lorraine Brown. "Each loaf is a little different because
our bakers are not machines."
Their breads are a bit more expensive than factory processed bread, but
that has not hurt business. In fact, to mix culinary metaphors, business
has mushroomed. The Brown family founded SGBC in December 1993. Within several
months their growth rate was averaging 35 percent a week and their
breads were in 35 retail grocery stores in the Seattle area. By March 1994,
they incorporated to raise money to continue growing.
"We don't have competition because no one else is working with spent
grain," Lorraine Brown says. The company has plans for several non-bread
food products that will use spent grain, although they declined to say what
products.
"There are a lot of uses for spent grain, it just requires
imagination,"
says Lorraine Brown.
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